Confiscated during the French Revolution, the Château des Milandes went through several owners who did not make any particular mark on its history. In 1870, a rich industrialist, Monsieur Claverie, acquired it, restored and enlarged it to give it the appearance it has today. In this Monsieur Claverie was largely inspired by the Neo-Gothic architectural movement led by Viollet le Duc. The exterior was modified or rebuilt during the 19th Century and some parts, such as the square tower were raised. On top of this tower, a 36m3 water tank was built, fed by a spring passing under the Château. In fact the tower served as a water tower, the first modern convenience in the Château. The gardens, laid out in the 15th Century, were also reorganized in the 19th. The farm on the site of the present gardens was removed and a new one built a bit further away. It was reputed to be a model’ farm, extremely modern for its time. Making use of the additional space available and the perspectives opened up, Monsieur Claverie laid out a new garden “a la française”. The wine trade, important in the region from the 14th Century onwards, made a significant contribution to the local economy. “Gabarres”, flat bottomed boats, carried wine for export to England and Holland down the Dordogne to Bordeaux. Monsieur Claverie built the wine cellars, an outbuilding in the form of a barbican, in which he placed enormous vats called “foudres” (tuns) each containing some 45 barrels of wine. On the death of her husband Madame Claverie sold the Château in 1920 to a Monsieur Mallez and the Chapel to the Commune of Castelnaud.

In 1938 Josephine Baker the Vaudeville star rented the Château and then bought it in 1947. Born in the slums of St. Louis, her childhood was spent in the streets, getting by, along with other black kids, she grew up sleeping in cardboard shelters and scavenging for food in garbage cans. At the age of 13,she left her parents’ house and got a job as a waitress. In 1918, she started work for the BOOKER WASHINGTON THEATER Dance Troupe, first as a maid, then, fairly soon after, as the “Funny Girl”. In 1924 she became dresser to a troupe of “Girls” where, when one of them fell ill, she took her place at a moments notice. She rapidly became the main attraction, and her success made her famous. Soon after, a producer, Caroline DUDLEY, offered her a chance of a European tour as she was recruiting black artists for a show in Paris. Josephine accepted, but with a certain trepidation. On her arrival she soon discovered that people could be so open-minded; not like her beloved, but cruel, racist USA. Now, far away from racism and racial segregation she was free to take part in the struggle on behalf on her brothers and sisters, a battle in which she felt morally obliged to participate. France became her new country,Château des Milandes her new home and she remained there to the end of her life. Baker engaged in undercover work for the French Resistance during World War II. She became an “honorable correspondent” and became sub-lieutenant in the Women’s Auxiliary of the French Air Force and was awarded the “Medal of Resistance” and the “Legion d’Honore”. In 1940, Baker moved to MoroccoIn 1942, she toured the region performing for the resistance. She returned to France in 1944, got married in 1947 to Jo Bouillon, an orchestra leader, and was back in the States in 1948, where she became an activist for civil rights. She was back at the Milandes Château in 1954, with the intention of raising a family of ethnically diverse children that she had brought to France from her tours around the world. She called them her “Rainbow Tribe.”In her last years, Baker suffered struggles, financial difficulties, and poor health.She died on April 12, 1975, four days after the opening of Josephine, a show based on her life. Her funeral took place in her beloved France, the country which she had adopted as her home and had taken her into their hearts.

History

Two hundred and fifty years BC it was inhabited by a celtic tribe the Bellovaques, who gave the city its name. The 11th century AD made it a fortified city because of its strategic position. In its most ancient part you find the castrum (fortified village) with its old keep (the “Tour de l’Auditeur”, 11th century), the Hôtel Bontemps (12th century, with its renaissance front), the ramparts, which used to encircle the city with a fortified gate and a tower later to be raised into a belfry (15th century). It towers above the Place d’Armes, nowadays used as a market-place every Saturday morning, with its five hundred years old 23 pillars and the pillori-irons to which the prisoners used to be chained.

In the hollow of the medieval ditch you can see the entrance to the troglodytic caves, once inhabited (from the 13th to the 18th centuries; guided visits all the year round, upon prior reservation). Strolling along the streets and alleys with their poetical names the “rue du Bout du Monde” (end of the world), the “Rue de l’Oiseau qui Chante (the singing bird), you will meet some more architectural treasures, the castle, the former Couvent des Frères Prêcheurs (monastery of the preaching priest)

About

In the centre of the town you can visit some troglodyte dwellings that date from around the 13th century. In the town you can also see the medieval belfry and walls, a 14th century castle, and the city hall. Belves is famous as being the ‘town of seven bell towers’. You will enjoy a pleasant afternoon wandering the streets and alleys of Belves – note that it is listed as ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’.

The main sights

The old town, called Le Castrum, originates from the 11/12th century and was originally surrounded by ramparts. These were 15 metres high under the hospital! Some of the ramparts are still visible – wander down the rue du Petit Sol and the rue de l’oiseau qui chante (street of the bird that sings!).

The Belfry was built in the 11th century and was originally a defensive tower overhanging a deep moat in which people lived in caves. At the bottom of the moat the troglodytes grew their vegetables. The visit to the “Habitations troglodytiques” is very interesting.

The entrance to the troglodyte dwelling is by the fortified gate in the corner of the square. In the 11th century this had a drawbridge and was the only entrance to the Castrum.

Also from the 11th century is the ‘Tourd de l’Auditeur’. The entrance is high up as guards used to enter by ladder and then pull this up to prevent intruders.

The other main building of the middle ages is ‘La Tour du Guet’, the watch tower which is out of town on the corner of the rue du Bout du Monde (End of the World Street ) and the Pelevade street (named after a menhir which once stood here). The watch tower overlooks the valley and so could warn when the enemy approached.

Moving into the 13th century there is the monastery of the ‘Freres Precheurs’, now the townhall of Belves, and the church of Moncuq whose choir and chapels are 13th century though much of the rest is 15th century.

The chateau on the edge of town was started in the 14th century and altered during the Renaissance and afterwards.

In the 15th and 16th century the covered market was built. Note the pilori chain on one of the pillars. This was put round the neck of wrong-doers and they were held there for two or three days.

The Maison des Consuls which houses the tourist office is also 15th century and was for meetings of the consellors. The ground floor was a guard-room.

One of the highlights of Belves is its position on a rock outcrop, overhanging the valley of the river Nauze, and the views across open countryside from the town. Don’t ignore the surrounding countryside wnen you visit Belves – there is a great deal to explore in the surrounding small villages.

OFFICE DE TOURISME DU PAYS DE BELVES
1, Rue des Filhols
24170 BELVES
TEL/FAX : 33-553-29-10-20
belves@perigord.com

http://www.perigord.com/belves

HISTORY

The castle was built from the 12th century by the barons of Beynac (one of the four baronies of Périgord) to close the valley. The sheer cliff face being sufficient to discourage any assault from that side, the defences were built up on the plateau: double crenellated walls, double moats, one of which was a deepened natural ravine, double barbican.

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The oldest part of the castle is a large, square-shaped, Romanesque keep with vertical sides and few openings, held together with attached watch towers and equipped with a narrow spiral staircase terminating on a crenellated terrace. To one side, a residence of the same period is attached; it was remodelled and enlarged in the 16th and 17th centuries. On the other side is a partly 14th century residence side-by-side with a courtyard and a square plan staircase serving the 17th century apartments. The apartments have kept their woodwork and a painted ceiling from the 17th century. The Salle des États (States’ Hall) has a Renaissance sculptured fireplace and leads into a small oratory entirely covered with 15th century frescoes, included a Pietà, a Saint Christopher, and a Last Supper in which Saint Martial (first bishop of Limoges) is the maître d’hôtel.

At the time of the Hundred Years’ War, the fortress at Beynac was in French hands. The Dordogne was the border between France and England. Not far away, on the opposite bank of the river, the Château de Castelnau was held by the English. The Dordogne region was the theatre of numerous struggles for influence, rivalries and occasionally battles between the English and French supporters. However, the castles fell more often through ruse and intrigue rather than by direct assault, because the armies needed to take these castles were extremely costly: only the richest nobles and kings could procure them.

The castle was bought in 1962 by Lucien Grosso who has lovingly restored it.

Visitors to the castle can see sumptuous tapestries showing hunting and other scenes from the lives of the lords of the period. The Château de Beynac has been listed as a monument historique by the French Ministry of Culture since 1944.

Beynac castle has served as a location for several films, including Les Visiteurs by Jean-Marie Poiré, in 1993, La Fille de d’Artagnan by Bertrand Tavernier, in 1994, Ever After by Andy Tennant, in 1998, and Jeanne d’Arc by Luc Besson, in 1999. The village of Beynac below the chateau, also served as a location for the film Chocolat by Lasse Hallström, in 2000.

Barons de Beynac

■ Maynard (1115-1124)
■ Adhémar (1147-1189)
■ Richard Cœur de Lion, king of England (1189-1199)
■ Pons I (1200-1209)
■ Gaillard (1238-1272)
■ Pons II (1251-1300)
■ Adhémar II (1269-1348)
■ Pons III (-1346)
■ Boson, known as Pons (1341-1348)
■ Pons IV (1362-1366)
■ Philippe (-1403)
■ Pons V (1461-1463)
■ Jean-Bertrand (-1485)
■ Geoffroy I (-1530)
■ François (-1537)
■ Geoffroy II (-1546)
■ Geoffroy III
■ Guy I (1643-)
■ Isaac
■ Guy II
■ Pierre
■ Marie-Claude (1732-18??)
■ Christophe-Marie (1764-18??)
■ Louis, dit Ludovic (1784-18??)
■ Christophe-Amable-Victoire (1831-18??)
■ Soffrey-Paul-Louis-Armand (1857-19??)
■ Amable-Avit-Christophe (1895-)
■ Pierre-Aimé-Soffrey-Armand (1929-)

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Recommended accommodation just 15 min. from Beynac
Ferme de Tayac, a lovely B&B in a 12th century former Farmhouse / Monastery situated in Tayac, a quaint little village in the heart of the Vezere Valley and only 5 minutes walk from Les Eyzies, the Prehistoric Capital of the World. The rooms are all en suite, spacious and comfy, all with views and in former Monks quarters and oozing history. Built up against solid rock, which means that both downstairs and upstairs are on ground level, walls of solid rock, ancient oak beam structures, fortified walls 3 feet thick, a massive and original wine press in the huge dining room, monk’s carvings in the stone walls, and lots and lots more. For more info please visit their official web site : www.fermedetayac.com

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